Dear Cambodia,
I don't even know where to begin. From the moment I arrived I knew there was something different about you from the rest of Southeast Asia. Especially since we took your new road from Stung Treng instead of your painfully disastrous 20 hour trip through pot hole filled roads, dust filled buses and multiple stops that seemed to loop the country.
Since I was young I've had a burning desire to live in your country. I'm not sure where it came from. Maybe I closed my eyes and spun the globe, or maybe since I have such a horrible memory my mom remembers why, but its fleeing my mind at the moment. The one thing I do remember my mom saying is, "you might have to eat cockroaches". She clearly didn't want me to go and knew those were my biggest fear, but she was definitely right. You sell those crunchy critters at markets like a snickers bar at the checkout counter of a Circle K. Luckily, I gave you a chance over her opinion, which these days seems to be rare, so consider yourself special.
You reeled me in with Siem Reap, which was small enough for me to love but provided "Pub Street" for my unending entertainment of people watching, all while eating amazing meals and enjoying cheap cocktails. Your heat and humidity were overwhelming and made me feel right at home.
You provided me with a wonder of the world. Watching the sunrise over Angkor Wat wasn't only beautiful, but it was the atmosphere that made it that much better. I had visions of the Taj Mahal and the swarms of people fighting in line and being loud and obnoxious. You surprised me. Even though there were swarms of people who were crazy enough to wake up prior to 5am, there was a peacefulness to it all. Well, other than that one time where I elbowed the woman who tried to step in front of my view and I boxed her out like a high school basketball game. "Spider-Man", "Spider Boy" and their multitudes of other friends came with menus offering to deliver breakfast and coffee to our spots. We politely declined and said maybe later. Well your local spider man remembered us a couple hours later and we took him up on his offer. We played games with your children, taking their minds off work for long enough to remind them they were children and to enjoy deep laughter.
We anxiously awaited a colorful sky that would reflect over the pond in front of the wat. As we became impatient and noticed some haze in the sky, we decided to beat the crowds and make our way inside. We found a little corner where we watched a pink sun rise over one of your most famous 12th century temples.
I was on the verge of uninterest in any more Asian temples, but your plethora of temples and ruins changed that. I must admit that by sunset I was over your temples, but prior to that I saw some of the most stunning works of art and architecture, brimming with tales of ancient history. Three of your monkeys even jumped on me in attempt to steal my water bottle, which drew quite the crowd.
I then made my way to your capital city, Phnom Penh. I knew it would be a different experience. I've read many a books on Cambodian history and life during the Khmer Rouge rule. The French style buildings and the hustle and bustle of a capital city provided me a unique experience. Visiting your killing fields and prisons was something not to be missed. It was powerful and moving. It was hard to be in a place that seemed beautiful on a sunny day, with children's voices and laughter heard from the school next door. It was knowing so many of your people had their lives brutally taken from them in that same spot where I was standing, with my own two feet. It was a place that has deep meaning for many that lived through the pain and suffering of the days of the Khmer Rouge.
And then to the south in Sihanoukville, where I found it hard to believe I was still in Cambodia. You wowed me with your glamorous Caribbean beaches. You made me forget I was in a country deeply effected by communism, war and land mines that are still waiting to be crossed.
Your people are the most friendly I have encountered. Your elders are beautiful people that have a glimmer in their eyes that reflect the strength they've gained through their years of suffering and healing. Many of your grandchildren still run through the streets laughing and screaming like children do. And many work in markets selling crafts to tourists because they know we are suckers for their smiling faces, whether they are scamming us or not.
Your food is some of the best I've had. Your Amok and Lok Lak have made me realize I could live here with you forever.
Your cheap beer, well let's just say that's a given. And of course, your fresh sugar can juice made right in front of me as the turning wheel squeezes the juice could be one of my most favorite things.
The smell of incense burning around homes, businesses or temples, the smell of fish that invades my senses as I wander your colorful markets or the smell of salt water creating ocean air are all unique in their own way.
Your idea of a national park is different than any I've ever heard of. Paved roads circling through it, with new resort and condo construction in the works and a casino right at the top, were the last things I expected when I dressed for a hike and set off on my motorbike to discover your mountains.
But most of all, riding through your countryside, is an experience of the TRUE Cambodia. It's what made me fall in love with you. Your endless fields of rice paddies, of skinny cows Chick-fil-a would despise, your children riding bikes in their school uniforms and frantically waving and shouting hellos and the palm trees that sway about as the warm breeze blows. The way the sun sets over your open fields, mountains, rivers or beaches is one of the most beautiful and serene feelings I've ever had.
As I near the Vietnam border with the windows down and the afternoon sun beaming in on me, your strings are pulling me tight and saying don't go. For this reason, I know I will be back for you. I know things will change over the years, but I will never forget these feelings I have for you and the beauty that you have overwhelmed me with in so many ways.
Until next time, much love and peace to you, Cambodia.
Catherine xo
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